trip well worth the fare

By L.G. GORDON, lggordon@naplesnews.com
January 21, 2005

You could probably visit a different Chinese or Italian restaurant every night of the week in Naples. But places serving Eastern European cuisine - specifically favorites from the Czech Republic and Germany - are as scarce as parking spots at Vanderbilt Beach.

That's why I rejoice when I find a place that serves dumplings, brats, sauerkraut and snitzels, foods I enjoyed while growing up in the ethnic enclaves of Baltimore. And if the restaurant does a great job, I want to shout it from the rooftops.

Consider this page my rooftop, where I'm about to sing the praises of a 1-year-old find in Naples Walk Shopping Center, the Old Europe Bistro. Given the background of owners Zdenek and Irena Zejda, however, I suppose I shouldn't be surprised that the restaurant is so good.

Despite their youthful appearance, the husband and wife team have been in the restaurant business for 30-plus years, both in the Czech Republic and Bavaria. Their expertise is evident in every aspect of the operation. (Service is particularly strong.)

Like many of us, the Zejdas became familiar with Naples during winter visits and decided to pull up stakes and move here. Not ready for retirement, they opened Old Europe Bistro, making classic dishes from their native land the specialties of the house.

Based on my recent mid-week dining experience, plenty of demand exists for their brand of ethnic cuisine. Although my guest and I arrived prior to 6 p.m., the tiny bistro was already doing bang-up business. When we left, there wasn't an empty table to be found. And I don't recall the last time I saw a happier, more animated crowd of diners - probably because the atmosphere is especially congenial.

A wandering accordionist and violinist, over here from Germany, further enhanced the party mood, traveling table to table taking requests. "The Beer Barrel Polka" turned into "The Merry Widow Waltz," which turned into "Edelweiss."

There was no question when it came to ordering drinks: oversize, ice cold drafts of Pilsner Urquell, a Czech import, and Paulander Munich, made by a brewery founded by monks in 1634. Both priced at $3.80, they were hoppy, golden brews a bit heartier than I usually choose but a perfect match to the robust food.

Oh, and what wonderful food it is.

Starters include Bavarian Wurstsalad (bologna with onions and pickles in vinegar), homemade garlic soup and beef tartare ($9.90), which my guest and I decided to share.

"If this is any indicated of what's ahead," my guest said, "we're in for a great meal. I would come back here just for the tartare."

The dish consisted of ground high-quality, raw lean beef was flavored with capers and a touch, just a touch, of curry and paprika. Chopped onions, sliced tomato, romaine lettuce, black olives and baby pickles (similar to kosher dills) came on the side, along with slices of better-than-average garlic bread.

In choosing main courses, we skipped over the salads, pastas, fish and most of the grill items - probably included to placate timid diners not familiar with German cuisine - and went to the house specialties.

All eight were tempting but we finally decided on Moravian Sparrows ($13.90) and Bavarian Bratwurst ($9.50). Both were flavorful, earthy dishes reminiscent of a time when calories didn't count.

The sparrows dinner paired farmer-style chunky cuts of spiced roast pork with sauerkraut and dumplings. My knife proved to be superfluous. The tasty pork fell into moist strands at the touch of a fork, the dumplings were feathery and the sauerkraut (or sour cabbage) was the real deal, with slow-cooked taste.

My guest loved her pick, too. The perfectly grilled pork and veal sausage came with real, creamy mashed potatoes, more of that good sauerkraut and delicious mustard.

On a future visit, I'm anxious to try Old Europe Bistro's version of sauerbraten or perhaps the jaeger schnitzel.

Yes, the food is hearty and portions aren't stingy, but don't leave without at least a taste of at least one of the desserts - fried plums wrapped in cognac dough served a la mode with vanilla ice cream and whipped cream is a good one - and one of the coffee drinks.

We recommend one called Sweet Harmony ($4.50). In a word, wow.

Note: Live entertainment has ended until next fall, when it picks up again around Octoberfest. However, I have a feeling the ambience is always lively and the setting is a pleasure. It's sort of a shopping center version of a Munich beer hall combined with comfortable neighborhood cafe.